Friday, July 1, 2011

The final part of the vacation: Rome

[Fireworks over San Angelo Castle in Rome. We were in Rome for St. Peter and St. Paul day, a local holiday.]


We began our vacation in Athens and ended it in Rome. Everyone was wearing down, but we had a great time. Sorry this post is coming so late -- the internet connection isn't working in our apartment in Berlin, so strangely internet has been harder here than anywhere else.

Florence has great stuff, but feels overwhelmed by tourists. Rome, by contrast, felt very much like a real city. It helped that we didn't stay in the city center, but instead near the Vatican.


Rome is full of piazzas -- city squares, generally with fountains powered by ancient aqueducts, and often full of people. On our first day, my friend and colleague Fabrizio showed us around the town, helping us get a sense for the city. He also pointed us to a great restaurant and gelateria.


The first site we saw was the Colosseum -- which is quite an impressive building to be inside.

[Constantine's arch and the Colosseum to the right.]

The floor was covered and what you see on the ground are the rooms that were under the floor, where wild animals and sets were kept.


That day in Rome was so hot, we had to go home after the Colosseum. After a siesta, we went out for a very nice evening walk from the Spanish steps to the Pantheon.
[Trevi Fountain.]



The pantheon really is remarkable and beautiful. A roman pagan temple very well preserved in the center of Rome, since it was converted to a church early on.


The Roman forum meant a lot more to me now that I understand Roman history a bit better and care more about that time period. This was the political and social heart of the Roman empire.


[This gate was erected when Rome suppressed the Jewish rebellion and tore down the temple. They brought Jewish slaves to Rome and made them all march through it. When modern Israel was created, evidently some of the military marched back through it the other direction.]

[Part of what was a giant basilica.]







Rome just has a ridiculous number of sites that in any other city would be a highlight. The Michelin for Italy doesn't even have descriptions of all of the 3-star sites in Rome. We happened to be walking by the church of Maria Maggiore, which is an amazing, giant church with 5thC AD Christian mosaics.


The Archeological museum had a great collection of statues and mosaics, along with whole painted rooms.

[Wrestler, with bruises and wrestling gloves.]


[A truly amazing sarcophagus.]









Paper-thin Roman style pizza:


[our local market]

On the last day, we went to St. Peter's -- the largest church in the world -- and to the Vatican museum, which has an amazing collection of ancient sculpture, and amazing Renaissance frescoes: the Raphael rooms and the Sistine chapel (no photos allowed).

[St. Peter's square.]


[climbing to the top of the dome.]
The Vatican museum:






Alright, I hope to do a few posts about life in Berlin -- but if we can't get the internet to work, it might be a while before that happens.

Monday, June 27, 2011

Firenze


[Palazzo Vecchio -- and the crowds]


[Duomo with Campanile on the right.]


[Ponte Vecchio]


We spent the last three-and-a-half days in Florence. We had the best meals of the trip (although pizza in Naples will always have a special place in my heart) and saw some incredible art and palaces.

[Gelato is supposed to be especially good in Florence. This place was good but we went to another place that was better.]


Our last time in Florence (1999), we were here for free museum week, which was a nightmare, because all of the Italians came out to go to their expensive museums. This time, we got a Firenze Art card, which allowed us to walk into most of the museums as if we had a reservation – very nice! Most of the museums didn’t let you take pictures, so I don’t have as much to share from this part of the trip (one reason I am doing just one post).

[Donatello]

[Originally on the Campanile]

[Michelangelo]

[Palazzo Vecchio -- outside above, inside below.]


Florence is a pretty town, with lots of nice streets, but unlike Naples it feels taken over by tourists. You are at least as likely to hear an American as an Italian. So I think you come here for the art – although the Tuscan food was great (and we did a better job researching restaurants). A lot of local specialties use stale bread. Some of the best dishes we had were tomato and bread soup, where the tomatoes and bread are pureed with garlic and herbs – really delicious.




We stayed in another really nice apartment outside of the central tourist area -- with another lovely rooftop deck:



Yesterday we arrived in Rome – for the last stop on our trip, before going to Berlin for a month.

[One section of Ghiberti's Gates of Paradise]